Wednesday, December 12, 2012

10 Weapons You Need...For the Apocalypse and For Fun (Part 1)

As the title states I will be discussing 10 weapons that you need to add to your arsenal. No matter what you use your weapons for, work as law enforcement/military, work as a security contractor in the private sector, practice for when the Zombie Apocalypse occurs, or if you are just a collector of badass toys, these weapons will give you the edge in any combat/tactical situation you might find yourself in. I have done extensive research on this topic, scouring the "End of the World", SHTF, Tactical and Law Enforcement Forums of the World Wide Web, collecting data from manufacturers websites and sending emails asking questions that weren't answered from info found at their website, and of course I have the personal knowledge of having used almost all of these. I will give you an in depth look at each weapon, whats entailed in owning, using, and maintaining such a device, what you should expect, how to store/carry it, and of course the big one, how much it will set you back to obtain it and how many hoops of fire you must leap through before signing your life away to the federal government to own one....well maybe I'm exaggerating a little bit on the hoops of fire and the government owning you after purchasing one of these weapons, but some are more difficult to procure than others.

When this idea popped in my mind I wanted to do a countdown from the 10th most important weapon, down to the number 1 most important piece of weaponry you should have at your disposal should you need it, however that changed as my research progressed. 
Honestly, I feel that for an assortment of tools, not a single one is more important or less important than another, all are equally important for the purpose of being able to tailor your load-out to specific environments and situations. Obviously, a scenario that requires you to enter and clear a 3 story building of flesh eating zombies would require a different load-out than a scenario that requires you to eliminate a road block of 10 armed, cannibalistic, slave trading, human, post-apocalyptic survivors (more information about these type of people at a later date) from a tree 500 yards back without being seen. With this in mind, you will need an assortment of weaponry that you can store and transport either: A) On your person, B) In your vehicle, C) By sled or horseback, or D) Whatever other means of transportation you have available.  Keep in mind while reading through the different weaponry that you may not be able to transport all of them at once, nor may you be able to obtain them all before you need to use them. Consider this a "wish list" that if you are able to get your hands on these, then by all means, you most certainly should. Many will already have several of the firearms, so it might just be that you need a few of the other items to complete the list. So, lets begin shall we?
 
1.  Mid to Full Size Pistol
Nothing is more important that your sidearm. This weapon is often the difference between life and death when one is faced with a prolonged close quarters battle or merely a simple pickpocketing that requires eliminating the pickpocket. Now, many will have their idea of the "ideal" or "perfect" handgun, but I will tell you from personal experience that I highly recommend Glock. For this category, the Mid to Full Size Pistol, there are in fact a couple choices when choosing a Glock pistol, which is perfect for you as the reader because lord knows we aren't all created the same. Some of us have larger hands and some have larger feet, some weight in at a thin 110lbs and others a muscularly beefy 325lbs! Glock has a Mid or Full Size Pistol for us all. As this is going to be your primary sidearm, this gun will always be included in your load-out no matter the situation, it should be attached to your hip at all times. This is one of the few weapons that is so versatile it can solve just about any problem you are faced with. Since this is going to be a weapon that your life will depend on (I know, you're thinking "aren't they all?") it should be chambered in a caliber that you feel the most comfortable with. Glock offers their entire line of handguns in sub-compact (small, backup sized), compact (mid-size), and full-size. Glock makes maintenance, repairs, and mag changes easy, making a Glock the most versatile and adaptable handgun available to civilians today.  A Glock 17 (full-sized 9mm version) barrel will fit into a Glock 22 (full-sized .40S&W version) converting the Glock 22 from .40 to 9mm.  The same applies to the slides (top half of gun) and the frames (bottom half of gun). A Glock 17 frame can be used with a Glock 22 slide.  A Glock 17, takes a standard metal-lined Glock magazine that is capable of holding 17 rounds of 9mm. The Glock 19, the compact/mid-sized 9mm little brother to the Glock 17, takes a standard metal-lined Glock magazine that is capable of holding 15 rounds of 9mm. The Glock 26, the sub-compact/backup sized 9mm baby brother to the Glock 17 takes a standard metal-lined Glock magazine that is capable of holding 12 rounds of 9mm. However, all three of these 9mm Glock pistols, the 17, 19, and 26 will accept and function with the full-size Glock 17's 17rd mag. Al three of these 9mm Glock pistols also will accept and function with the optional and very available, massive 33rd standard metal-lined Glock magazine! I could keep going but to summarize, Glock Magazines are a standard dimension and will fit any Glock, a .40 Glock 22 mag can be loaded with 9mm and used in any of the three 9mm Glock's. Fancy huh? Now, one must be careful when doing any interchanging of parts and magazines. Neither I, nor Glock endorse swapping barrels amongst your Glock handguns. However, I will say, it can be done, I have done it and it works flawlessy. I do not carry my Glock this way and I do not recommend you to carry yours that way either.  If it were the end of the world and gun parts are hard to find and in limited supply, the ability to swap parts amongst Glock handguns would be priceless, this is the reason for me writing about this. So, a Glock comes in three sizes, mags interchange, parts interchange if necessary, what else do they do?  A lot!  Glock is known for it's legendary Safe-Action mechanism which puts the safety in the trigger. You may have heard people say, "Glock's don't have safties." This is an incorrect statement as Glocks have more safety mechanisms than your standard handgun, they just don't require the user to switch them on or off before use.  If a Glock is dropped a mechanism blocks the firing pin from striking a bullet, if one were in the chamber, during a free fall. The trigger must be pulled with your entire finger, not a finger nail and it can't be activated from the side, you must be holding it in a shooting position to actually fire the gun.  Another reason for choosing Glock for this category is the fact that the Mid and Full-sized Glocks have attachment rails for attaching lights and lasers.  






3rd Generation Glock 19


Ok, I've sold you on a Glock, now to decide what caliber and which size. As I said before, you should choose a caliber that you are most comfortable with. If you have always shot 9mm and you enjoy shooting 9mm because you can empty an entire magazine into a 2" circle at 30 yards, then you need a Gloc
Glock in 9mm.  If .40 is your choice because you like that extra stopping power and you find it easier to control then get one in .40. The good thing about Glock is that they manufacturer their handguns in all major calibers so everyone is bound to find a pistol that they can shoot and defend themselves with.  As for the size of the gun, this all has to do with the size of your hands, how you hold the gun, and again, what you feel the most comfortable with. Most Law Enforcement and Military Personnel that are issued a Glock, carry a Full-Size Glock 17 (9mm) or 22 (.40S&W). The main reason for carrying the larger size is due to magazine capacity. Even though the mid-sized glocks will accept the larger magazines it's just not something that the Government was thinking of when they purchased these guns. Another reason for the larger size is barrel length. The bigger the gun, the longer the barrel. Longer handgun barrel means your can shoot farther and shoot more accurately.  This is the part where most people say, "ok, I've made up my mind, I want the biggest Glock they sell so I can shoot 100 yards!". I will tell you though, thinking like that will only get you a gun that is too big for you to use properly and could cost you your life. So that you don't have to read another post, I will briefly describe, How to Pick a Handgun over the next several lines.  When you go to the gun store to look at guns, you point to the one you want to look at and they pull it out of the glass enclosure they store them in, then they pull back the slide while ejecting the mag to make sure it's not loaded (this is also known as a function check) and next they hand it to you. This is where people often do some of the weirdest and sometimes the stupidest things. Just because you know the gun is unloaded and the guy behind the counter does too, doesn't mean you should look down the sights while aiming it at his head. All guns should be treated as loaded and aimed in a safe direction when handling them (aim it down toward the ground or at a wall).  You will know you have found the correct gun and correct size for you by doing the following procedure.  Pull the slide back, it should lock with an empty mag in the gun, this simulates an empty gun as if you just fired the last shot. Now aim down the sights holding the gun one handed with your dominant hand, if this is your right hand then the gun should be in your right hand, and yes the slide should still be pulled back. Next take your thumb and work the mag release without changing your grip. Put the mag back in, and work the slide stop lever with your thumb to reset the slide forward. What you just did was simulate a tactical reload. You keep the gun on target the entire time while ejecting the spent mag, inserting a loaded mag, and then feeding one into the chamber by resetting the slide without changing your grip or losing the target, allowing you to continue firing.  If you have to change your grip on the pistol then the gun is to big. If your hands hang off the bottom of the guns grip then the pistol is too small.  Remember this is your primary sidearm we are talking about, it needs to be perfect!  
4th Generation Glock 22
Another shot of a 3rd Gen Glock 19


My choice of handgun for weapon #1 is the mid-sized Glock 19. My hands fit perfectly on the grip, I can perform a tactical reload without changing my grip or moving my hand a millimeter. I can accurately fire the Glock 19 out to 30+ yards and the 9mm round is plentiful and readily available. A Glock 19, like any Glock can be purchased for about $550, give or take $50 depending on the time of year and if the gun store is running any specials.




2. Large Knife (8"+ Blade)
Like your primary sidearm, a knife is equally important and so versatile that it should also be carried on your person at all times. For almost any situation you will encounter in this life or the next, a large blade, tactical style knife will do the trick nicely.  There are so many companies making knives these days, the selection is endless. This is good for you as a customer as it allows you to really find something that suits you and your style for a price that fits your budget.  I will be discussing a couple options here but you only need choose one.  Ka-Bar, a legend in knives, manufacutres the standard issue blades and bayonets issued to our boys and girls protecting and serving our country.  Ka-Bar is most famous for their USMC knife, a design that has been imitated by many, but only perfected by Ka-Bar.
Ka-Bar's USMC Knife is standard issue for the Marines
This is a fantastic knife and would make a great addition to your load-out however the blade length does not fit within the spec's I have chosen of eight inches or larger so it is not one that we will be discussing here at this time.  Ka-Bar does manufacturer a line of blades with lime green handles known as their "Zombie Line". These blades are made specifically with one thing in mind, slaughtering Walking Dead Humans, aka Zombies!  There are several knives that fall into this category but I have chosen one that meets our needs. The "Zombie Death Dagger" by Ka-Bar has a blade that comes in right under nine inches at 8.5", functions and looks extremely badass!
 Ka-Bar's Zombie Death Dagger comes with interchangeable lime green and black G10 grips for true customization.
What makes the Zombie Death Dagger from Ka-Bar so perfect? This bad motha measures in over a foot long at 13 7/8", features a pointed tip blade cut from a solid block of an extremely hard forged steel, making it almost unbreakable.  Notice I said almost, if you tried you could probably break it, but it can withstand things that most knives just can't handle.  Most knives that fit into the over 8" blade length class don't feature pointed tip blades since this sized knife is a borderline machete. A machete can make a great weapon but most are made for cutting grasses and wood from trees so the steel blades of machetes are often lacking the characteristics that make up a good combat knife. Ka-Bar's Zombie Death Dagger can be yours for about $55 and is available from Amazon.

Another knife that needs to be discussed here is the Cold Steel GI Tanto. The GI Tanto from Cold Steel, like the Ka-Bar USMC knife just doesn't meet the 8" blade spec, however it meets our needs and for a great price!

Cold Steel's GI Tanto with G10 Handle and Matte Black Tac Finish
The GI Tanto is everything tactical! It features a true tactical point with the Tanto edge inspired by Ancient Japanese Katana swords. This point is sharp, allows for fantastic piercing capabilities and gives the knife two edges, the main blades edge and a smaller one, the Tanto edge, also perfect for skinning.  The blade length of this masterpiece manufactured by Cold Steel is seven inches with the knife having an overall length of 12" making it an even foot long. Besides the edges of this knife, there are a few other characteristics that make this blade perfect as a primary blade for you load-out. The blade of the GI Tanto is cut from 1055 Carbon Tool Steel, one of the hardest steels on the market. This ensures that the GI Tanto retains is razor sharp edge. The blade is coated in a Matte Black non-reflective Tac finish making it the perfect knife for any scenario or operation thrown your way. Notice the funny indention after the hilt? Cold Steel cut this indention into the steel so that you can covert the GI Tanto into a spear or war club quickly and easily. It can be affixed onto a bamboo cane or wooden stick of some sort, then tied into place with paracord and used to hunt or kill! Unlike Ka-Bar's Zombie Death Dagger, this blade comes with a Secure-Ex Sheath that can be attached to a belt or MOLLE equipment to protect the blade when not in use and provide and easy carrying solution. The best feature of this knife is it's price, it can be purchased from Amazon for about $27.
GI Tanto in it's Secure-Ex Sheath


Maybe none of these knives are doing it for you, and if that's the case, that is ok. My last and final option is perfect for those that like DIY articles. You can view my post titled "Cut Yourself - Forging a Blade" for a step by step guide to making a knife. I took the design of the GI Tanto and modified it a bit, making it longer, thicker, and more machete like but made from a hard steel giving it tactical knife characteristics. I call this blade the GI Tanto Mod 2 knife. The number 2 designates that it was the third design I drew for this project as the first was Mod 0.


The blade length is 12" long with an overall length of 18". The grip is covered in paracord giving the user a phenomenal grip and quick access to nearly 30ft of rope with a 550lb test. This knife is long enough to be classified as a machete but retaining the characteristics we need for our tactical knife, it is the perfect companion to be attached at the hip opposite of your sidearm. I have used this blade for peeling apples to cutting down cactus, trimming branches to decapitating thieves and it has performed again and again. This is the perfect knife for the DIY Operator who prefers complete customization of his weaponry. It can be formed from pretty much any piece of steel: lawn mower blade, large file, truck leaf spring, or steel bar stock (which is what I used). It just takes some time and patience to fashion the blade, but when you get done you will have learned a skill that only Rambo and his closest friends know.

My choice for Weapon #2 is my Cold Steel GI Tanto. Now my GI Tanto Mod 2 is in my arsenal and will be with me when the Zombie Apocalypse begins, but I didn't choose it as one of my 10 weapons. I would also like to note that just because I chose a single blade out of all 10 weapons, most Operator's, Survivalist's, and anyone else reading this article for the purpose of putting the information to use, would benefit from having access to two or more knives stored somewhere within reach on your person.  I typically have several knives handy during any operation, most are attached via the MOLLE system to my gear while two are kept on me.  Remember the point of this article is to introduce you to various weapons while giving you a better understanding of how they function, what they do best, and which weapon is best suited for your specific needs.  If you don't have any of the 10 weapons on this list, it's time to make a trip to the store, and don't forget your checkbook. Also, it doesn't hurt to own more than 10 weapons as the more you have the better you can accomadate your load-out to an operations specifics.  Moving on....

 
3. Kel-tec KSG Shotgun
Notice I didn't just say 12 Gauge Shotgun here, I was specific. There is a reason for this as you will soon discover.  I don't feel that there are other shotguns that compete with the KSG from Kel-tec, especially for our purposes. This is one of the newest weapons to hit the market, released in early 2012 the KSG literally, redefines the 12 Gauge tactical pump segment. There are many 12 Gauge tactical shotguns but none like the KSG. Kel-tec, located in Cocoa, FL (I've driven by their manufacturing facility by the way) is dedicated to designing and manufacturing advanced tactical firearms with what is sometimes referred to as a futuristic design, with the most simple operating designs possible, 100% in house on their CNC machines.  Now, Kel-Tec has sometimes gotten a bad wrap for poor functioning hadnguns but they have worked out most of the kinks from their earlier generations of firearms. Kel-Tec is well known for the lightest, thinnest 9mm the PF-9 that utilizes a single stack magazine to allow the gun to be less than an inch wide dimensionally. They have also manufactured many .223/5.56 rifles and pistols over the years but it is over the past year they have made the farthest advances in their lineup. They now offer a bullpup, piston driven .308 rifle, known as the RFB, that is in the running for the military contract and their new double tube magazine pump action 12 gauge. These two weapons have launched Kel-Tec from a small boutique gun manufacturer located on the beach in Florida to a large scale, Internationally known Firearms Manufacturer.  You now know about Kel-Tec, let's talk about this shotty!  

The KSG is modeled after Kel-Tec's .308 the RFB as a Bullpup design. The bullpup design has not been one of the most successful firearms designs in the history of guns, partly due to it's "techy" futuristic look, however, a lot of the guns being designed today are bullpups. The reason for this due to the accuracy obtained from a bullpup firearm. A bullpup design moves the action back closer to the shooters shoulder, doing two things. First, it reduces the overall length of the weapon making it more mobile, shooters can exit vehicles and turn corners faster while staying on target. Secondly, it greatly reduces recoil by having the action's mechanisms closer to the shoulder, sometimes as much as a 50% reduction is seen with newer bullpup designs.  The KSG is only 26" long with an 18.5" barrel making it United States Civilian legal! Yay! It weighs 6.9lbs unloaded and about 8.5lbs when loaded full with twelve 3" 12 gauge shotgun shells. It can hold and fire 12 gauge shells from 1.75" to 3". It includes two magazine tubes running down the bottom of the barrel side by side, holding 6 shells each, the left or right tube is selected by the shooter using a lever located near the trigger. It is a pump action shotgun, meaning that after each shot the pump must be worked to load the next shell.  Kel-Tec is known for making what critics often call "plastic" looking guns. The receiver of the KSG is manufactured from hardened steel while the stock and forearm are made from Zytel, a glass reinforced nylon that is chemical/solvent, shock, and temperature resistant. The shotgun can be fully disassembled without the need for any tools, making it easily field stripped for service and cleaning. Another awesome feature of the KSG is the 1919 rails that run down the top and underside of the barrel allowing any AR-15/M4/M16 accessory to be mounted on it. That's right, your vertical grips, iron sights, holographic optics, even scopes can be mounted on this Shotty!

Kel-Tec's KSG makes the list for these reasons:
  • Has one of the highest round capacities for a civilian legal shotgun on the market today- 12 rounds of 3" 12 gauge and 14 rounds of 2 3/4" 12 Gauge!!
  • One of the smallest legally acceptable shotguns on the market that doesn't require a tax stamp to own or purchase
  • Unique design and combination of durable materials makes the KSG the most durable shotgun available
  • Accessory rails allowing the mounting of vertical grips and optics are standard on the KSG unlike any other competitors shotty
  • The built in sling mounts on the barrel and stock allow for many sling mounting options, making it easy to carry the KSG over your chest, back, or side like a fine Coach Purse! Ladies the KSG is the must have accessory for 2013, make sure you ask Santa to bring you one for Christmas.
Kel-Tec's MSRP is $880, so retail should be a little less, however due to the high demand for these cone poppers after Obama's re-election, almost all gun stores that were retailing these for $1000 have raised their price to $1500 saying that they just can't keep them in stock. Before I close out weapon #3 I would like to add for the Saiga owners out there that were disagreeing with everything I had to say about the KSG after sentence number two, I am well aware there are many possibly better tactical shotguns on the market today, some that are semi-auto and hold large capacities like the 25 and 30 round drums for the Saiga 12 Gauge. However, due to the large size (overall length) of the Saiga and the massive recoil felt when rapid firing one with a 25 round drum of 3" 12 gauge shells attached, the Saiga does not have a place on this list. It could possibly have a spot on another list but the purpose of this list is to show 10 weapons that are easily maneuvered, field stripped, and repaired, while providing the most damage, accurately. Remember what were up against here, it could mean your entire family having their skin chewed off of their arms and legs by a horde of STD infested Zombie Prostitutes if you don't finish clearing the once crack house out as quickly and efficiently as possible and your AK-47 just ran out of ammo....
.....Oh yeah there's a reason you have the very light, 8.5lb Kel-Tec KSG loaded with 00 Buckshot slung to your back! 



4. AR-15/AR-10


I know you've been waiting for it, and here it is. 4th on the list, one of your primary rifles should be an AR-15.  As the AR-15 comprises a huge assortment of rifles, it is hard to say an AR-15 and mean any one specific gun. With that in mind, like your sidearm, I will say this, pick a caliber, brand and size that you are comfortable with.  Don't just get the biggest AR, which would be the AR-10 a .308, because the guy at the gun store told you it has the most stopping power and bullets are more expensive. We live in a day and age where you can have it your way and you should! AR's are made by thousands of companies and chambered in every caliber known to man, and if there's a caliber you want and you can't find, someone can make it for you, all you have to do is ask.  Not to poopoo your dream of having a AR-15 chambered in .45 Colt, but keep in mind, when SHTF and you are battling for your families survival in a Post-Apocalyptic world, no more guns are being manufactured, meaning no new replacement parts and the biggest factor of them all, no more ammo is being mass produced, meaning if your gun does not fire a common caliber, then once you run out, the gun is worthless. Unless, you have a friend that lives on an Indian Reservation where they mass produce ammunition out of trailers hidden in the forest to sell to the Dixie Mafia. If you do then you could quite possibly get that AR chambered in .45 Colt, at least until there's no more brass, primers, or bullets to load into them.  For those of you wondering, what is a common caliber, it is simply any caliber that is widely recognized as the "standard". These calibers tend to be military/NATO calibers. Any round that is designated by NATO as a NATO round is mass produced everyday in almost every country in the world...literally almost every country.  These calibers are the ones you should consider having all of your weapons chambered in if possible and they are as follows:
  • 9mm or 9x19 (9mm in the US and 9x19 in metric countries)
  • .308 or 7.62x51 (commonly referred to just as 7.62mm or 7.62Nato)
  • .223 or 5.56x45 (commonly referred to as 5.56mm or 5.56Nato)
  • 7.62x39
These first three calibers are used by every military and government agency worldwide with the last, 7.62x39 being used by every present day communist nation and any country that was once apart of the old Soviet Union aka the USSR. 7.62x39 can still be found pretty easily on American soil, however it is not mass produced in America like it still is in Russia, China, Yugoslavia, Poland, Hungary, and so on.  9mm tends to be a handgun caliber, although there are many rifle formats that fire the 9mm round.  The coolest part of the AR platform is that the majority of AR rifles are available in any of those four calibers mentioned above and parts are easily found.  

The AR platform rifle has got to be one of the greatest weapon platforms known to man. Many AK purists will argue that the AR is one of the most finicky and flawed weapons known however, I will disprove that and show you why you need an AR or two at your disposal. Eugene Stoner, Robert Fremont, and L. James Sullivan of the Fairchild ArmaLite (presently known as Armalite) corporation designed the 7.62mm AR-10. The AR in the name AR-10 stands for Armalite, not to be confused with Automatic Rifle as our US Congress stated in the Weapons Ban of '94. There is nothing automatic about any AR rifle. The -10 designates the number of the design. There were many AR rifles designed by Stoner while working for Armalite. The AR-3 for example which is best known by the name of the "Stoner 63" is pictured below.
AR-3 or Stoner 63 Rifle
Vietnam Era M16 Rifle
The AR-15 is based off the design of the AR-10 but was originally designed to fire the lightweight, high powered 5.56mm round. Due to financial problems, Armalite sold the rights to the AR-10 and AR-15 to Colt in 1959. Colt sold it's first 300 AR-15's to Maylasia on September 30th of 1959. After the Maylasian sale Colt started marketing the AR-15 to various global military and law enforcement agencies.  The US Army was the first of any US Military branch to adopt the AR-15 rifle, except they requested that it be modified from it's current semi-auto firing mechanism to shoot semi-auto, three shot bursts, and full auto. This design became known as the M16 and saw it's first use in the Jungles of Vietnam in 1963. By 1969 the AR-15 Rifle had been adopted for service in all branches of the US Armed Forces with the Majority of them using the M16 variant, thus replacing the M14 rifle.

The M16 has seen one of the longest runs of any firearm to be used by US Military. In 1994 the US Army approached Colt and asked them to come up with another variant of the AR-15 but with a shorter barrel and only semi-auto and three shot burst. This firearm would be known as the M4 Carbine. The M4 was soon adopted by all US Military branches with very few troops still using the M16 today. Some Marines have reported using M16 rifles during basic training. Most soldiers carry the M4 rifle and only fire it in semi-auto. There are a handful of M4's being used by the military the retained the full-auto capabilities of the M16, these are known as the M4A1.  
A tan painted M4 Carbine with holographic sight, light, laser, and vertical grip attached. This configuration is typical of what is seen being carried by US troops currently stationed in the Middle-East.
AR-10's and 15's have come along ways since their first tour of duty in Vietnam. One of the major complaints from the soldiers who fought in the jungles that still echoes through out the shooting world today is that this weapon system jams too much. AK fan's are accustomed to direct piston driven impingement while AR's are typically gas driven impingement systems. For those that are new to all this I'll explain. When an AR-15 is fired, gas from the bullet firing travels down the barrel towards the muzzle, some leaves with the bullet but some exits a tiny hole at the top of the barrel and travels through a stainless steel tube the size of a straw at 15,000psi back towards the receiver. When this gas reaches the receiver it pushes the bolt assembly back into the stock which is then pushed forward by a spring that resides in the tube that the stock is installed on. As the bolt assembly is pushed forward from the force of the spring it chambers another bullet while cocking the hammer, readying the rifle to fire the next round. The gases that chamber the next round are full of carbon soot and quickly dirty the receivers, upper and lower, as well as the bolt assembly, firing pin, and barrel. This carbon buildup can clog the gas tube preventing gas from ever reaching the receiver, preventing the action from cycling or causing it to only cycle partway creating a stovepipe jam. The AK-47 and it's variants which are even older than the AR platform, make use of a gas piston driven system to cycle. In the gas piston driven system the gases flow down the barrel towards the muzzle, some exit with the bullet but some exit through a tiny hole on the top of the barrel. It is here that the AR and AK systems are different. Instead of the gas flying down a tube toward the receiver, the gas pushes a stainless steel rod, at 15,000psi, back towards the receiver forcing the bolt back which is then forced forward by a spring loaded mechanism chambering the next round while cocking the hammer, readying the weapon to fire the next round. Since the gases don't ever reach the receiver on the gas piston system their are fewer misfires, jams, and misfeeds.  Now you're wondering why I've explained all of this. The AK guys are sitting here saying, "screw the AR-15, you just explained why an AK is better". Here's why this was necessary for you to know.  In the last 5 years many of the aftermarket companies producing AR parts have poured their R&D dollars into developing Gas Piston AR's and Gas Piston mod kits to modify existing AR/M4 weapons for a low cost. A Gas Piston AR gives you the accuracy and adaptability of the AR weapons system with the ruggedness and dependability of the AK weapons system. Some Gas Piston AR manufacturers brag about how you can fire 1000 rounds from their AR, throw the rifle in sand, then dirty water, and then fire another 1000 rounds without a single jam or malfunction.


As you can see from reading a little background information, the AR platform and it's variants can be configured in many different ways. Now we will look at the various AR's available to the civilian market and what you should be looking for when seeking to add one to your arsenal.  If you want an AR chambered in a caliber other than .223/5.56 or .308/7.62 you should look at DPMS as they have revolutionized the AR platform in wildcat chamberings. For example, DPMS's 2012 Product Catalog consists of the following AR calibers, each available in many different configurations:
  • .22LR
  • .204 Ruger
  • .223/5.56
  • .243 Win
  • .260 Rem
  • .308/7.62
  • .338 Federal
  • 6.5 Creedmore
  • 6.8 SPC II
There are several other popular chambering's for the AR platform that include but are not limited to the following:
  • .300 Blackout (.30 caliber round designed by Advanced Armament and quickly catching ground with Special Forces and those that require silencers for their missions/operations)
  • .458 Socom (a Rock River Arms design)
  • .50 Beowulf (a .50 Caliber AR-15 by Alexander Arms)
  • 6.5 Grendel (.30 caliber round that competes closely with the .338 Lapua, also by Alexander Arms)
  • 7.62x39 (the infamous eastern bloc/commie round, many diffferent companies manufacturer rifles chambered in this caliber, look at Yankee Hill Machine and Rock River's newest AR designed in this caliber for more info and ideas)
  • 7.62x40WT (.30 caliber round that uses .223 mags and bolts, developed by Wilson Combat of Berryville, AR the WT stands for Wilson Tactical, their AR Rifle Division)

    Regardless of what caliber you decide to go with, an AR is an essential tool that can be configured for pretty much any scenario thrown at you. Obviously, in today's world and environment one can own an AR and many accessories to be able to customize it as needed for your load-out. However, in an "End of the World" environment being able to carry around multiple caliber barrels and barrel lengths to customize your AR as necessary is just not feasible. Since, the AR platform made the list, there must be a configuration that is suitable for many different scenarios with minimal change. 

    The AR-10 rifle only comes in one caliber and that is .308/7.62. An AR-10 with a 16" barrel would be a perfect firearm for any CQB or Long Range situation that requires the use of a high velocity cartridge and scoped rifle. For those of you that choose to go with the AR-10, awesome, you won't regret it. However, the AR-15 is my choice for weapon number 4. All of the calibers mentioned in the bullet points above (minus the .308) are based off the AR-15 platform, making the AR-15 the most versatile rifle in the AR platform.  Now for caliber choice. For those like me, looking at the AR-15, there are really only two calibers that I care about from the many that are available, .223/5.56 and 6.8 SPC II.  These two calibers are used by military organizations worldwide, making them readily available to obtain.  The biggest difference between the two is that the .223 is a .22 caliber bullet and the 6.8 is a .30 caliber bullet. Both require caliber specific bolts, barrels, and magazines to function properly. Ammo for the 6.8 is often 2 and three times more expensive that the .223 but the velocity and stopping power of the 6.8 is comparable to .308/7.62 from a bullet the size of a .223. As with anything they both have their pro's and con's. Me being a purist and a shooter who likes uniformity I chose an AR-15 chambered in .223/5.56 for weapon number 4. My AR-15 has a 16" Heavy Chrome/Moly Lined Barrel, is Piston Driven, with a 10" Quad Rail allowing installation of any optic and accessory available for the AR-15 as of today. This configuration I have described can be purchased or built for about $1100, give or take a hundred bucks. An AR-15 configured the same way without the Piston System can be had for a couple hundred dollars less.

    20" Barreled .223/5.56 AR-15 w/ Scope - This particular configuration is known as SPR (Special Purpose Rifle) and used for Long Range Tactical scenarios
    Looking back, that is a lot of information on the AR platform, lets recap the reason why weapon #4 is the AR and why you need it in your arsenal.
    1. The AR platform is highly versatile allowing many different configurations to suit any situation
    2. This weapon platform is the standard issue of the US military making parts for repair and service easy to come by and ammo readily available, now and in a post-apocalyptic earth environment
    3. The AR platform provides the most firepower and accuracy available on the market in a weapon system of its size (for you AK guys, sorry that AK needs a lot of work for the accuracy of it to even compare to that of an AR
    4. Your basic off the shelf AR from the gun store can fire around 10,000 rounds before needing any parts replaced or serviced
    5. The modern, Piston Driven AR's are as rugged and dependable if not more rugged and dependable than any AK or AK variant on the market today
    6. For a thousand dollars, the most reliable weapon system can be yours
    5. Sub-Compact Pistol

    Sub-Compact Glock chambered in .45 ACP with Stainless Slide
    Glock 26 with a Purple Finish looks nice with purple heels ladies!
    Two pistols on your person at all time is still not enough! The ideal load-out would consist of three pistols, a rifle, knife, and a shotgun.  A sub-compact pistol is a must for any tactical scenario. These baby backups often provide the final kills when faced with an extended gunfight. Having a sub-compact pistol on your person is also a good idea in case you should become unarmed. Zombies won't be disarming and taking hostages, but a group of those Post-Apocalyptic Cannibals that I spoke of in the beginning of the article are very capable of such acts.  The ideal carry position for a sub-compact pistol is the ankle as it is a fairly discreet and comfortable carrying position for a handgun. Again there are many different handguns available for you to choose from but once you consider your primary sidearm that was chosen for weapon #1, the list gets much smaller. Some people choose to carry a completely different brand and caliber of handgun for their backup, typically a smaller caliber. This is a stupid idea and one that can lead to some serious trouble if you should need to pull that backup in a battle. The reason is simple, if you feel the mission you are taking is best suited by carrying a .45 as your primary side arm, then if you need to pull that backup it best be able to stop someone or something like a .45 can, not like a .22.  Since I chose the mid-sized Glock 19 chambered in 9mm for my primary, the smaller Glock 26 is my choice for my backup. Easily tucked away, I carry it attached on my right ankle as I am right handed. Should I need another mag for my backup, the same mags that fit my Glock 19, fit the 26.  Once again a Glock is a Glock is a Glock, so long as it is purchased in the basic factory configuration, one can be had for about $550.

Monday, December 10, 2012

Merry Christmas and Happy Zombiedays!

Well as the title suggest there is more Post-Apocalyptic Earth and Zombie Survival talk coming as well as a few posts dedicated to awesome new technologies. I just wanted to post and let everyone know that this blog is not dead. I have been awfully busy running a business through the holidays and keeping that blog updated with product.  I have not forgotten about my loyal and royal "By the Way the Crow Flies" readers and have been working on something big. Stay tuned because later this week the updates are coming! Here's what you have to look forward to.

  • The Top 10 Weapon's Everyone Should Have....Just In Case SHTF
  • After the Storm - Where to Find Food and Water
  • Communicating With the Unknown - Badass Two Way Radios Worth a Look
  • Cool Technology....That Deserves a Place in Your "End of the World Bag"
  • and more
Not too sure yet how these will be arranged, I have been doing a lot of research and gathering a lot of pics so that this can be one of the most visual posts yet, hopefully creating a greater buzz here at The Crow Flies. I wish you and yours a very Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, a Wonderful Kwanza, a __________________(fill in blank with holiday celebration of your choice), and a blessed New Year! Be safe, stay warm, and most of all stay informed.

- Kelly

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Internet Speeds of the Future!

I am currently testing out Comcast's fastest internet packages and will be posting speed results here for you to compare with what you have. Check out SpeedTest.net to run a quick speedtest, post your results in the comments section with the following info about you ISP and connection.

At $50/month with a DOCSIS 3.0 Modem over cable I'm currently achieving the following speeds on their 50Mbps Package. Not BAD, considering I'm paying for less!

Hopefully when the new lines are run to the neighborhood and the upgrade takes effect I will be able to post faster speeds with their 100Mbps Package. Comcast has announced 200Mbps internet connections will be available Mid-2013 and with DOCSIS 4.0 technology hitting the market late-2013 they are hoping to unleash 300Mbps connections early 2014! Sure has come a long way since the days of 56Kbps modems and their wide ribbon cable interfaces. I was truly blown away after upgrading from 12Mbps on a DOCSIS 2.0 Modem to the 50Mbps on a DOCSIS 3.0 Modem, I can't imagine how quickly pages will load and how much more productive my time spent browsing, downloading, and uploading from the internet will be with speeds exceeding 300Mbps.



Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Dynamic Blog Format

The Crow Flies Readers,

I am experimenting with Dynamic views for those viewing the blog on computers and tablets. This will allow a much more interactive viewing experience for all that subscribe to the blog and follow my articles. Some of the templates for these Dynamic layouts are cooler than others, some use only photos to navigate the blog, eliminating text completely except from the actual articles, and some of these layouts are not meant for a blog of this type. Please bare with as I start implementing these layouts for trial runs. If you like a particular layout or one conflicts with the device you use to primarily view the blog please leave a comment under this post, explain what you like or don't like about the layout, if you don't like the layout or it conflicts with your hardware let me know if you are using Mac, Windows, Linux or Unix, and what browser you are using. It will be time and date stamped so I will know which layout you are referring to. Seriously people, comments for this process are necessary as I my decision for a final Dynamic layout will be based on the one that conflicts the least or is voted the best based on your comments and the traffic to and from the blog. If you don't say anything then you can't complain when/if a layout you dislike becomes the new normal of By the Way the Crow Flies. Speak now or forever hold your peace! Well not now but you get the idea, as the layouts are implemented. I will start this process sometime in the next 5 to 7 days as the technology becomes accessible to me and the final code is done being developed. All the enhancements and mods done to this blog are done to make your experience here better. There are about 45 people that regularly view the posts on this blog with 150 people viewing daily, some that never come back and some that have never been here before but will start following the posts. The blog is growing and I thank all of you for coming here and supporting my work. Every time you type in the address (http://bythewaythecrowflies.blogspot.com) in whatever browser you use and hit enter it counts as a page view for the blog and that in turn increases traffic my friends! I like to see increased traffic and so do the folks over at Google. The more traffic means I move up on the search engines listing. For example: You go to www.google.com and search "knife making" or "crow forges a blade". Right now you have to scroll through hundreds of search results before finding my blog but as traffic increases, Google's bots move the blog up on the list shortening the number of results between the big sites that pay to be on the top 10 and me.  Now if you are more specific and search, "by the way the crow flies blog" I will be the top few results Google spits out at you. That's not the point of this though. The goal is to be found by people that have no idea this blog even exsists and them to subscribe and start following the blog like you guys and gals do, they then become "site regulars" and those are the kind of people I LOVE! Thanks again! Stay safe out there, oh yeah and, everybody, I love you!

- Kelly Crow

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Cut Yourself - Project 3 - Forge a Blade

Project 3 - Forge a Blade

As the title suggest, in this post you will be learning how to make a blade of some sort and size to use to your advantage for hunting food or protecting yourself from the enemy (zombies).  I recently was sitting at home on a Saturday watching TV when I thought to myself, "I wonder how difficult it really is to make a knife, machete or sword from steel??" So, I decided to find out. Googling the topic did not help so much, I won't lie to you, I did find a few articles recommending the type of metal to use, and one really good write up on fashioning a Machete from an old Leaf Spring off a truck similar to what Rambo did in Rambo IV. Being a man of many hobbies and many skills, I knew I had some steel around the house. As a matter of fact I had a scrap piece of steel that was 24" long, 1" wide and 1/8" thick. This piece of steel was no high carbon tool steel, neither was it a light Stainless Steel, it was a very low carbon piece of steel forged from a hunk of iron and sold at your local hardware store for repairs or construction, but it would do for a first knife!

Gather your tools and supplies. To complete the project you will need the following, some of these can be substituted for other items but this is what I used and it still took almost 3 hours to finish!

Supplies and Tools
  • Steel Flat Bar Stock (01 High Carbon Tool Steel makes the best blade, however just about any type of steel hard or soft will work for this project). Steel can be purchased at your local Hardware store, or for a wider selection you can check here OnlineMetals.com. I suggest finding a local Metals supplier with a storefront locally that can provide a vast selection cut to size. We have several in the Houston area that I will be visiting this week, I will post more once I have done my research.
  • Parachute cord (this is used for the grip/handle of the knife and can be substituted for G10, wood, leather, micarta, or whatever else you decide)
  • Permanent marker
  • Metal Files (at least two are neccessary, a rough file and a softer file for smoothing)
  • Bench or Pedestal grinder (absolutely neccessary this tool is a must unless you plan on filing the entire thing which could take weeks)
  • Dremel Tool with Grinding & Cutting Wheels, and Polishing Compound and Wheels
  • Jig-saw or Reciprocating Saw with Metal Blade (a hacksaw will work as well)
  • Gloves (Metal gets hot when its being worked with)
  • Eye Protection (Clear glasses to protect your eyes when grinding the steel)
  • Assorted Whetstones or other shapening stone
  • Drill and  3/16" to 1/4" Metal Drill bit
  • Vise for holding the knife
Now that you have gathered your tools and supplies it's time to decide on a design. For my first knife I decided to copy a Gerber Tanto Blade that I have since the steel I would be using was exactly the same thickness and width of the Gerber Blade. I decided to make my knife much longer than the Gerber though. I drew my design on the steel with Permanent marker. This picture below is not the Gerber blade that I am speaking of, it is however a Tanto blade style knife that I drew out on the steel before cutting it out. Remember to click on any image to get a full resolution view!
Right: Cold Steel's GI Tanto.   Center: 1/4" Hot Rolled Steel with a modified and somewhat larger version of the GI Tanto drawn onto it    Left: My hand to show the size and scale of these knives

Ready Your Engines!!

Now it's time to get down to business. Using a jig-saw I cut the angle of the blade out of the steel and the curve of the handle at the bottom, basically what you will be left with is a very rough outline of the knife, with no edge of course. Now it's time to start putting an edge on this thing. Studying my Gerber blade and a few kitchen knives I noticed that the angle for the edge starts anywhere from .4" to .6" from the edge of the blade, dependent on the size of the knife. For this knife I am making it is exactly 0.5" from the edge.  I would start by grinding a 40 degree angle toward the edge using the bench grinder. 

Top: The knife that we are making, notice it is very rough looking at this stage, it is exactly 1" across the blade so you can see that the angle of the blades edge starts at 0.5" across.   Bottom:  The other piece of metal that was left from the original bar stock after I cut the knife shape on top out. Notice I started tracing another Tanto Blade design on it. It will make another good knife in time.

You should be pulling the knife through the bench grinder from left to right and back from right to left adjusting between a 30 and 40 degree angle each time. Doing so you will notice that it puts a nice angled edge on the steel. If you just keep one angle it will only take a small amount off from the edge instead of the full 0.5" that needs to be trimmed.  Make sure to flip the knife from one side to the other after so many passes on the grinder so that you are taking off the same amount on each side. The blade must be as symmetrical as possible! Here are some pictures of me grinding an edge onto the modified GI Tanto that was pictured first in this write up. Notice the angle of the blade on the first three pics and how I smooth the angle of the grinding out in the fourth last picture.





The grinding process is the most lengthy of them all. Once you notice the blades edge is sharp like a knife and the edge is no longer flat (it comes to a point) you are done!!! Now I used a dremel tool to smooth the angle of the edge on the blade and to remove any burrs of metal on the handle left behind by the jig-saw.
The Blade's edge has come to a point, it is time to smooth the blade out with files and the dremel tool

A tanto blade has two edges that are kept razor sharp , the angled edge and the flat edge that runs the length of the blade.  The angled edge on top is used for skinning and jabbing. A quality tanto blade has the tops angled edge shaped to perform these tasks.
More on shaping the top angled edge - remember how we started at 0.5" from the edge of the blade and started grinding the angle out? Well, the top angled edge must be ground at an angle out as well without taking off too much metal and losing the hardness and holding strength of the blades point and edge


Now you can drill a hole in the bottom of the handle or as I did, drill several up the handle to help reduce weight and allow places to feed parachute cord through, realistically four to five is plenty for parachute cord. With my knife's handle area in the vise, blade sticking out, I could see it was time to file.  Here comes the real fun part (being scarcastic here)! This can be a workout and make your arms sore, make sure your gloves are still on. Taking the roughest file you have a work it up the blade to smooth out anything the dremel and grinder left behind. Do both sides until you have an even angle starting at half the blade and going to the edge. This rough file should leave some scratch marks, so use the smooth file to help remove the scratches and put a finer edge on the knife.  Once you are satisfied with the condition of your blade it is time to put your handle on so you will have something to hold onto while sharpening. I wrapped parachute cord up the handle then back down, so as to give my knife a double wrapping of cord.


Sharp as a Razor!!



Once the handle is on it's time to pull out your whetstones or whatever type of sharpening stone you will be using for this step of the project.  I use 4 whetstones to achieve a surgical edge and mirror finish on all of my knives. The first stone to be used is a 1000 grit which will help to define the edge and remove any microscopic imperfections by shaping the edge of the blade. Once a pronounced cutting edge has been formed it is time to move up. This is where my 4000 grit whetstone does most of the work. Using this grit for some length of time should have the knife cutting paper, paracord and other objects that are easy to sever.  Next I use a 6000 grit stone to start polishing the edge of the blade and allowing it to make a finer cut. I don't spend much time on this stone as the final whetstone will do the knife justice. My final stone is 8000 grit and it makes the cutting edge of the blade shine like a mirror. Once done the knife is sharp enough to remove hair from my arm as if it were a razor blade!

Look on in Amazement!

 



That is the entire project! You should now have completed your first knife and have the knowledge and know how to make many more. I would try different metals for your second blade and a different shape. My second knife I decided to use a piece of aluminum which is never used for blade making because of it's soft properties. My aluminum knife weighs less than a sheet of paper and is so sharp I used it to shave the hair off the back of my neck this morning before work! A fantastic tool that will surely come in handy during the Apocalypse. Well I'm not so sure about that. Really I only made this aluminum blade because I had some aluminum bar stock handy and I read online that you can not make a knife blade from aluminum. The mass public says its impossible and upon performing a search from aluminum knife, Google only returns results of knives with aluminum handles. It is true, aluminum is not a choice for knife making. So, I wanted to see if I could form aluminum into the shape of a blade and then sharpen it to hold an edge capable of cutting paracord and shaving hair from skin. It is possible ladies and gentlemen, I have done it, it can be done!!! Take that to the bank naysayers! HA!
The Aluminum Tanto

I am in the process of grinding the edge onto a Modified GI Tanto blade knife that is the size of a Machete. I am using steel for this blade. At almost 18" in length with a peak blade width of 2" this knife will weigh in somewhere between 10 and 15lbs when done and will be able to hack the arms and legs off any person or animal that gets between me and my surviving. I will post pictures of the finished product when it is complete, for your viewing pleasure!



Enhancements

After finishing the project as outlined above I started thinking of ways to polish the blade of my knife to achieve a shine like any other knife you might buy at a store that was produced in a factory and cut on CNC machines. This process may dull the knife a bit but wont take the edge off, so it can be easily sharpened again after your done. Feel free to stick this part in at the point of the process where you are done filing and using the dremel.  Put the knife, handle first, in your vise, blade out.  Using a sander with 60 or 80 grit paper (the lower the better), hand sander, belt sander or orbital sander will all work, sand the entire blade on both sides, from edge to edge. This will remove any scratches and scrapes left behind from the files and grinder. The blade should have a flat silver color now, looking very dull but no deep scratches.  Switch to a higher grit paper 120 or 220 and repeat the process. This will smooth out the blade even more. I did not go high but on my Modified GI Tanto, I will go all the way to 1000 grit to see what kind of effect I can achieve. I wanted this first knife to have a rough somewhat primitive look to it, I mean seriously, it was made in my garage from a piece of scrap steel right? After sanding the next step is to use the grey polishing wheels that come in the polishing and cutting kit for the dremel. These wheels are hard like a cutting or grinding wheel but are really like 4000 grit stones that will put a shine on any metal surface. Run this polishing wheel over the entire blade, both sides, including the blades edge. The blade will now have a mirror shine characteristic to it! Your almost done. Take the polishing wheels for the dremel (whitish, cream colored cotton wheel), with the dremel on high touch it to the polishing compound and begin to polish the entire knives blade, both sides including the edge. Wipe clean when done with a soft terry cloth and resharpen your knife on the whetstones. Look on in amazement for a second time as you should be able to see your reflection in the blade now! Check out the several pictures of my finished blade, polished and sharpened. Notice I left part of the steel's original coating on to give it that primitive look I was talking about earlier. I still polished this coating, so some came off and what is left reflects like a mirror but some stayed on. I think it looks really neat. To each his own though.   FYI - No two pictures below are the same, some look close to the other but the angle of the blade has changed with the lighting to help show the reflections off different sides and angles of the blade.








Additional Info

Upon doing more research into the topic of Metallurgy, I have found that dependent on the type of steel used to make your blade it may or may not need to be annealed before working with it and tempered when the knife has been formed before adding your handle. If you are using steel from a lawn mower blade, leaf spring, or file, then these must be annealed before you work with them. This means to soften the metal. Now don't get me wrong you can grind them into the shape you want but it will take a while to do. I was beginning to wonder why I was breaking metal blades for my Jig Saw and it was taking metal drill bits almost 20 minutes to drill through a pieces of Steel bar stock that I purchased from the hardware store. The steel had been hardened and was ready to be used as is. It was not meant to be ground up. To soften the steel before working with it you can do the following. Build a small controlled fire, add coal, and let it go out. You will want the hot coals to burn for a long period of time. If you've ever played with fire you should know that hot coals or a burning wet log can burn for hours or days even. Place the steel that you will be using into the hot coals and leave it for 4 to 6 hours, overnight will do as well. Remove and let cool naturally by air. The steel has now been softened and shouldn't break any bits or blades unless your tools are just cheap! Once done cutting your knife and grinding the edge you must temper the steel. Tempering is a process that makes the steel harder but not brittle. It hardens the steel for use as a tool but leaves the edges ductile so that they don't break but bend to an extent. To temper at home, preheat your oven to 450 degrees, then place your knife into the oven for 20 minutes. Remove the steel and let cool. It should be a yellow to straw color when removed. This means the steel has been successfully tempered. If you can achieve a blue to purple color then the steel has been hardened the most it can possibly be. This would be ideal but not likely to be achieved in a kitchen oven, possibly a high powered ceramic oven that some often have in their garages could achieve this. I do not believe it is or was necessary for me to do any of this with the steel bar i used for this project as it was already annealed, hardened and tempered at the factory before being shipped to the store. I was able to make a knife from the steel and sharpen it to a fine cutting edge. I did think it necessary to include this information for those that are contemplating the idea of making a knife or knives that might be used as tools of survival as it will then become necessary for them to make sure the steel has been through the appropriate processes so that it does not break or lose its edge quickly. Who knows when you might need to cut somethin'.

UPDATE - Modified GI Tanto

I wanted to make pics available of my latest finished blade - the Modified GI Tanto that was mentioned a few times above. Some of the steps in making a knife, depicted this blade in the pictures above as well. Well, its done! All 16", polished with 1000 grit Wet Sandpaper (Getting a rub down with 2000 grit this weekend to help increase that mirror shine). Let me know what you think in the comment section. Time to start on another blade. The next few knives I will be coating with a Matte Black Alumahyde II Gun Coating for a true tactical look, stay tuned to see how they turn out.
Notice the marks left on the blade, it still needs some work. As soon as I got a mirror shine on it, I had to sharpen it to see how well it would function in different situations. This blade is an awesome knife/machete combo blade. Sharp as a razor but hard and sturdy enough to chop wood and foliage without damaging and dulling the blade.
Once I obtain some 2000 grit and possible 3000 grit paper this weekend I will be refiling and sanding the blade down again to remove that last bit of coating peaking upward from the paracord handle and will work on getting the rest of the grinding marks off the blade so that I can achieve a high quality crafted knife appearance.

Notice the cut out for the pointer finger on the top section of the handle. The handle on this blade had to be thick in order to control such a massive blade and get good leverage when using it as a machete but felt awkward as a straight handle. The dip in the handle gives the bearer of this blade a more ergonomic feel when gripping and using this blade.






Angled toward the plant, attempting to show the mirror shine that 1000 grit paper brought out. Click on image to view at full resolution and you'll see the plant's reflection really shines off this blade.
Both Tanto blades that I have cut and ground. I hadn't used or owned a Tanto blade until recently and now I can't see ever owning another drop point knife again, the angle on these is spectacular. I think modern day/tactical Bowie knife when I look at Modified GI Tanto blade on the right and tactical kitchen knife when I look at the blade on the left!